Explosive Power Tools

Today we learnt a bit about explosive power tools how they work and some safety. Their are a couple of different types of EPT the direct and indirect the direct fires the nail straight from the gun by the charge and the indirect uses a piston to shoot the nail. A couple types of nails are a smooth nail which is best used for shooting into concrete and a knurled nail which is best for shooting into steel.You should always use the apprioate PPE when using a EPT.Their are different strength charges and a power adjuster on the tools. EPTs are good and quick. You should get your tool serviced every twelve months and keep the tool and charges in a locked container. Never point it at anyone and never shoot it into the sky.

WEATHERTEX

WEATHERTEX CLADDING

The Weathertex cladding was quiet a simple and easy product to use and also looks great. Their were a few things to lookout for when putting the boards in place make sure they are all securely in place, we put a couple of rows on and realised they wernt properly clipped on and had to take them off and start again. Also be careful when handling them not to scratch or chip the boards. We predrilled holes and use nails to fix the boards in place. the most important thing to get right is making sure the boards are absolutely level and straight, can do this by using levels dumpies or string/chalk lines.

WEATHERTEX INSTALATION SAFETY

You should always wear PPE Glasses Earmuffs Helmet Steelcaps and always take care

WEATHERTEX

Fixing
If the signboard is part of the building structure the instructions given in The Weathertex Owner/Builder Installation Manual must be followed. This specifies fastener spacings of 200 mm at board edges, 12 mm from the edge, and 300 mm centres throughout the body of the board.
Rigid fixings such as screws and masonry nails or anchors, should not be over-tightened into the signboard surface. Clearance holes should be drilled in the signboard to receive these fasteners and assist product performance.
The following is a guide to fastener types and their preferred maximum spacings:
Fixing to Masonry
Typical fasteners for fixing Weathertex Signboard to masonry or concrete walls include masonry nails and washers, masonry anchors and countersunk or hexagonal head with washer, screw fixings. Plastic inserts and screws may also be used. The fasteners should be selected and applied in accordance with the manufacturer’s advice.
When fixing Weathertex Signboard to masonry or concrete, space the fasteners at 450 mm maximum centres throughout the board. The number of fasteners entering the masonry or concrete can be reduced by providing a frame to support the signboard. Please refer to "Construction Considerations".
Back surfaces and edges of signboards which are to be fixed over masonry or concrete should also be painted to ensure that the board is properly sealed.
JOINTING
The optimum method of jointing is to provide 6 mm minimum clearance between sheets and at joins with other materials. Vertical joins may be formed using Weathertex Joint Trimmers.

TIMBER WALL FRAMING

Although brick houses are very popular in western australia, traditional timberframed construction is widley used.

The first step in setting out for walls is to mark out the positions of every stud, windows and doors on the top and bottom plates. We do this by laying the top and bottom plates on side by side ensuring their ends are flush together. Then by reading your plans we measure and mark everythings position on the plates. Then by working out off the plan we find out the hight of your common studs jack studs and the length of sill trimmers lintels and noggins. Once all your timbers are marked and cut out its time to nail them all together. By doing this the wall plates are layed on the floor and the studs are placed in between them ensuring their all bowed the same way. Nail them all together and nail in any noggins lantels or sill trimmers. In any door ways we cut half way through the bottom so they can be easly cut out at a later stage. We then check the wall for square and put on the approiate bracing.To stand the wall up lift them up and hold in place with temporary braces,by putting a string line along the top and bottom plates we can get them dead straight and level for plumb.Any corner studs are reinforced by fixing blocks cut to size and nailed in.

SCAFFOLDING

SCAFFOLDING

In western Australia Scaffold (Scaff) can be erected by anyone upto a height of 4 meters. Anything above that height must be errected by a licenced scaffolder. A scaff is a temporary structre designed to create a safe working area on the side of buildings or anywhere of a certain height.
There are a few different types of scaff the Pole, is made up from scratch by joining steel tubes together with specially designed couplings.
The Frame scaff, is made up of pre fabricated frames that clip together. It is a quick and easy system.
The Modular scaff, this is a sort of cross between pole and frame scaff.
The Tower scaff, This is fairly tall and narrow, its a free standing scaff and usually has weels which makes it easy to manover. This should never be erected more than 3 times its smallest width at the base.
For Scaffold there are 7 rules to rember.
1- Ignorance, people being ignorant of safety.
2- Instability, making sure the ground is able to take the weight of the scaff and its occupants, never pack up the weels and never move it with people on it.
3- Exceeding a safe work height, Read the safety manual and see how high your paticular scaff can go.
4- Mountaineering, never climb up the out side of the scaff use the supplied ladder.
5- Unsafe platform, Keep the platform tidy and always close the ladder hatch.
6- Untied tower, if your leaving the tower over night then tie it in or take it down.
7- Overloading, Has a safe working load again check the users manual.
And most importantly wear PPE a helmet and safety boots.